Paris, Made in the Shade
To err is human. To loaf is to Parisian. - Victor Hugo
Many photographers say that the best time to photograph a place is early in the morning, as in to be up before the sun is up. That sounds fine and obvious, until your alarm goes off. I didn't leave the previous night's dinner until 12:30 this same morning, when my alarm went off at 5am. I don't even remember when exactly I got it and I won't labor the point further. Let's just say it was early. However, I wanted to be up during this so-called "best time."
Just Walk and Enjoy
Upon waking up, I was curious about breakfast. My hostel kitchen didn't open for another hour or so, making me excited to look for a local bakery. One thing I love about Europe is simple breakfasts. I found a bakery nearby on Google that was about a mile and a half and made that my first goal. Thinking it would be a quick walk, I fooled myself. I didn't even get two steps from the hostel door before I started snapping away. It was dark, slightly chilly, and the streets were empty with Paris slowly waking up.
Upon finding the bakery, I ordered half with my stomach and half with my eyes. Little bread delights with chocolate were dangled (resting in a showcase) in front of me and I was sold. As I ate my goodies outside on the sidewalk I was thinking it would be fun to photograph the breads being made in the back of the shop. My French being well below par, I wondered how to ask. Plus, the place was rather hopping with customers and the workers seemed busy, adding to my shyness to ask. Waiting a few minutes, I went in to ask. My universal language of holding up my camera and pointing around, it elicited a response in clear English from the gal who just sold me pastries. "You want to photograph in here? Go ahead! Have fun!" Well that was hard. If you're ever in Paris, do go to the bakery, Douceurs et traditions Boulangerie. They open at 6:30. They're real and they're spectacular.
Feeling pretty excited, I saw from afar the top of the Eiffel Tower peaking over some buildings, so I went thataway. The morning light was still great and I wanted to see the Tower before it got crowded. I'm not an early morning person in general, but I love when am up early. It always seems like a treat getting to see a place when few are around.
When getting to the Eiffel Tower, I instantly returned to my feeling like a tourist. My insecurity caught me with, "ok, here's another drop in the ocean of Eiffel Tower photos." It was beautiful to be around, but I walked around a bit before snapping away. Getting around to another side of it, I found a cool little park underneath it.
Before the sun got too high, I made my way to a somewhat nearby bridge to try and photograph the tower from there. It was a great place to see people walking and riding their bikes to I don't know where. I saw a lot of couples dressed up, having photo sessions with the Eiffel Tower in the background. It seems like a good business idea and I wondered if I could get in on that somehow, somewhere, sometime. In the meantime, I saw one photographer was just finishing up with a couple and walking away. Feeling a bit like a vulture, I went really quick and asked the couple if I could photograph them with the Eiffel Tower behind them and they obliged. Is that bad?
Then it was time for second breakfast, and I enjoyed a street cafe. I don't remember which was the driving force, the desire for a cappuccino or to sit at a street cafe.
Time for Church
After such an exhausting (finding pastries and cappuccino is tough work...) morning, I figured it was time to go see some stained glass windows and cathedrals. Before seeing Notre Dame, I wanted to see a cathedral named Sainte-Chapelle. I had seen a picture somewhere of the windows and it looked pretty amazing. Plus, I heard there are less tourists as Notre Dame and so I was in. Taking an Uber for 5 euros from the Eiffel Tower, I got to enjoy a bit of downtown Paris traffic. It afforded me a quick nap.
In finding the church, it was crowded. I figured I would just have to get used to it at this point and enjoy it (and photograph above the crowd). As promised, the stained glass windows looked amazing. In looking around at all the artwork and symbols, I wondered if I should have sprang for a tour guide, or even one of those audio-guides. I just read the little placards scattered around. As usual, my mind began taking over in thought, in wondering what this place was for. Seeing it was connected to the royal palace, I wondered what life was like for a royal church.
I wondered if this place was connected in history with the crusades. Wouldn't you know it, I began to feel somewhat sad here. I will admit I know little to nothing about French history, but I wonder about beautiful Cathedrals beyond the awesome beauty to how they were built. Are they self-image extensions of former kings? Did the money come from military conquest or on the backs of peasants? Yes, I'm an over thinker. Seeing all the little pictures in the stained glass, I knew it was telling history both Biblical and probably french history. Wish I had sprung for a guide!
A couple blocks over is the famed Notre Dame de Paris. It was crowded and that was ok. I was actually surprised that the line to get in moved pretty quick. Once inside it seemed like a world unto itself. The place is massive and felt a bit maze-like. Like in Sainte-Chapelle, I have admit my mind was already rolling in thought. With so many people flowing through here, I wondered how many saw this as a place of worship and a checkmark on a list of places to see. A place nearly 900 years old, I imagine the lure it has for history. My ignorance held me since I knew little history beyond the Disney cartoon movie about a hunchback. I was curious if there really is a person that lives here to ring the bells.
In wandering around a bit, I found myself sitting near the center and Mass soon began. At first I thought I should leave, thinking Mass would go long and I didn't want to stay too long, but I stayed. The Mass sounded beautiful in hymns, but I didn't understand the French. I did enjoy getting to greet and be greeted by those sitting around me. That's always a fun part in the Mass. I also got to go up for communion, even though I didn't get to have it. The Mass was enjoyable. Maybe one of these days I'll get confirmed so I would be allowed to have communion. Someday!
After leaving Notre Dame, next on my list of musts in Paris was to have some gelato. I had seen an episode of Anthony Bourdain eat at someplace nearby and it became a quest to find it. The place was named St. Louis something and I went looking for that name. Finding it on Google Maps, I went and found 8 gelato places on a street named St. Louis. They were all called St. Louis gelato. Where was Mr. Bourdain to help me?
While trying to decide which place to try, I noticed this was a great place for people watching. Plus the light was great in the midday sun. It was time for gelato and time to relax along the Seine River. I was told that was the thing to do. And I will tell you to do the same...they were right! Relax! The gelato I had, by the way, it was freaking amazing. It was raspberry flavor and oh my...I wish I could buy you one to try.
After sitting along the river for a bit, I began wondering if I had had the Anthony Bourdain gelato. Recalling the episode and the exterior of the place, I decided to walk further down St. Louis street. I ended up finding it and I figured it I owed it to someone to have more gelato. What justification do you use? This time it was a scoop of cherry and a scoop of chocolate. Was it good? You bet your sweet bippy it was good!
Time for a Siesta
Also on my list of places to see were local parks. Looking at which one was nearest to a subway station, I headed to Parc des Buttes Chaumont. Aside from being near to a subway station, I found myself amused at the word "Buttes" and went to see it.
As I got to the park, the previous late night and jet lag were beginning to hit me. The park looked beautiful, with a quiet pond and giant rock with a Romanesque gazebo on top. But all I wanted to do was to sit, and I sat. Something I always like about European countries (and Middle East) is that people in public don't mind sharing tables or benches. The park was not crowded, but most of the benches were taken. I found one with a man sitting on one end, leaving the other end open. I plopped down and he didn't mind. In the US, this seems culturally weird. Or maybe it's just me?
As time passed, my sleepiness was kicking into high-gear. I looked around and saw other people sleeping on the grass. So like the Romans, I did as the Parisians do and laid down and enjoyed basking in the mix of sun and shade. Not a bad way to spend an hour.
As Night Fell
Soon after my nap, I rejoined the world and took an Uber back near the Eiffel Tower. I know I had dinner somewhere, but I can't remember what beyond a crepe. I just enjoyed strolling along the Seine and ended where I ended the night before, on the narrow street of Rue Berton.
After much heal dragging in coming to Paris, I found myself enjoying the pace of the city. This time I wasn't in a rush, I didn't have anywhere to be, the night was a warmish mix of cool, and for the moment, all was right in the world. Thankful to the Lord, it was a great time to say goodnight.